This can be relatively inexpensive to very expensive. You will have to pay something at least some of the time. We fulltime and have done so for several years. During , we paid for camping a total of nights. That year included about two months of travel in southwestern Canada plus all over the USA with the exception of the southwest and New England. That nightly average cost increased in due, partially, to the economic recession starting and continuing through During , we made our major trip up the East coast from North Carolina to the tip of Maine and then west to Chicago. Nightly campground fees were higher than our previous annual averages. This can force the nightly cost up but also decreases the cost of car travel running around. A small factor but it has an effect on overall costs.
Camper Extension/Power Cords
And I don’t know much about electrical issues. But I try to learn from others and then put that information in terms everyone can understand. So the discussions below are my attempt to simplify what can be a very complicated system to comprehend. Then it dawned on me that I would want it to be really, really basic.
This is a fairly new park. The entrance is a little strange. When approaching the CG there is an entrance which has a code operated gate. You need to go past that and into the driveway at the end of the street, but there is no parking area and you have to block the entrance while checking in. Having.
Most people ask if I can explain the RV electrical system in simple to understand terms. The electrical system in your RV can seem complex and confusing until you have a basic understanding of how it works. Your RV actually has three separate electrical systems. We are primarily concerned with the volt DC and volt AC coach systems.
The majority of campgrounds you go to will provide you with an external volt electric source to plug into. Your RV has a heavy-duty power cord that is normally about 25 feet long. Depending on the type of RV you have, or purchase, it will either be a 30 Amp or 50 Amp system. When you plug into the proper campground electrical source it will supply power throughout your RV.
What Is a Full Hookup at an RV Park?
Hooking up a amp vehicle to a amp power pedestal whenever possible will help protect the long-term dependability of appliances in your rig, Finch says. The breakers for the electrical systems in most campgrounds are designed with a tolerance of percent, plus or minus. If breakers tripped at exactly 30 amps, they would cost much more — perhaps 10 times as much — as breakers normally used. A amp outlet supplies 3, watts 30 amps multiplied by volts.
Shorting a hot wire can easily cause a fire, but beyond the possibility of a localized burn, volt DC systems are relatively safe. In today’s RVs you can assume that any electrical panel that is protected by removable fuses is a volt DC panel.
The first part, the 30 amp side of the socket, goes to the normal, everyday things we all use. It includes one of two air conditioners. The other side of the socket goes to the second air conditioner. Now let’s get the concept and not get hung up on “code”. A “code” 50 amp outlet is one that will provide for you 50 amps of volt AC.
That outlet can also provide two separate 50 amp volt feeds. If your driving a coach with electric cooktops people in the newsgroups say they exist, apparently! The normal motorhome doesn’t. It runs all but the back air from one side and it runs the rear air on the other. Based on this, if you were to put in a plug for your motorhome, you might want to consider that a more conservative, safer approach might be of benefit.
You might be better served with a 30 amp and 20 amp breaker at the supply if you were going to draw but 30 and 20 amps. Unless you need a lot of power in some other application; unless you’re doing commercial welding or some such, the installation of a code outlet is a big waste of money and can be much more dangerous to you and your coach. What I Wanted Most campgrounds I go to have a box that contains a 30 amp plug and a 20 amp plug.
Most boxes like that are run from a 30 amp breaker on a main panel.
How to Manage Your RV’s Power Load at a 30-Amp Campsite—Even With Kids
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Question to ask around for 30 amp plug into it out at a amp rv circuit wired and day-use locations online! Getting a rv hookup – 5 results – rv/boat paver parking pad. ship to both a rv size bed dsi water hookup.
Testimonials I was surfing on the internet recently reading some of the forums on RV AC Electricity and was astounded by the confusion over AC electricity, particularly amp usage of AC electricity. This goes to show you how unless you’re working with it every day, we take electricity for granted. After all , if I’m not having any problems what need is there for me to understand it?
By reading the forums the answer appears to be as soon as you purchase your first rv , start tripping a few breakers, and all of a sudden we’re wondering what in the world is going on. With rv’s getting bigger, fancier, and adding all the comforts of home and more power requirements have naturally increased resulting in the mysterious world of 50 amp service. If you think I’m exagerating just read some of the forums. I use the word “mysterious because the misunderstanding is not only between 30 and 50 amp service but also many don’t have a clue as to what 50 amp service actually is.
Basically most people realize you can’t run two air conditioners or one air conditioner and another high amperage appliance such as microwave or hair dryer at the same time with 30 amp service and that you can with 50 amp’s but how that is accomplished is anyone’s guess. People seemed to have a basic understanding of what was going on with 30 amp service because it was pretty straight forward.
You could basically “draw” or use up to 30 amps with no problem. If you go over that you would trip the shoreline breaker.
Posted on Sunday December 14, Douglas Keister provides us an informative and entertaining History of RVing in this one-hour documentary. If left unrepaired, a potential safety defect could lead to injury or even death. Safety defects must be repaired by a dealer at no cost to you. If it happens again and the RV power pedestal has a amp outlet you can use it instead of the amp outlet.
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My RV has Amp connections. Is there a way to hook up to use Amp service? What do I need to do and will everything work properly? The short answer is yes, but first you need to have an adapter so you can physically plug in to the Amp outlet. Once you have the adapter, you should be able to use all your appliances — just not at the same time. You will have to manage your power usage, and be particularly aware at appliance start-up, when things like the microwave and air conditioner tend to draw more power than they do once they are up and running.
For instance, on Amps, we may run our refrigerator and air conditioner at the same time but will refrain from using the microwave until the air conditioner is off. Or you might opt for running your refrigerator on propane and you will still have enough power leftover for running your air conditioner and microwave at the same time. Different RVs will have different wiring schematics, so you may have to experiment. As a general guideline, an air conditioner might use Amps, a microwave Amps larger convection microwave 13 Amps and the fridge Amps.
Appliances with heating elements hair dryer, toaster, coffeemaker, etc. Electric heaters are another big draw. On our rig we have a programmable battery charge rate that allows us to restrict the amount of power used by my battery charger. These are just a few suggestions to help you live with amps.
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I removed the metal cover and the home-made wiring shroud. The coiled-up large black cable red arrow is the sub-feed that supplies power to the new sub-panel. We left one large knock-out for the sub-feed cable. This cable needs to enter the main panel at arrow 1, so we had to re-route the cable behind all those other cables. This clamp is just big enough for the G sub-feed cable.
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Tweet This page is part of a sequence of questions on our RV electrical systems section. You can browse the rest of the related questions at the bottom of this page. The answer to this question depends on whether your RV has 30 amp or 50 amp capabilities. You may have already read this from a previous question in this series, but you can easily know which you have by looking at your power cord. A large plug with 3 prongs is most common and is 30 amps.
Bigger and newer RVs could have a 50 amp plug which is large and has four prongs. No matter how much power is available to you at the power source, this is the maximum your RV will be able to accommodate. What often happens is when people aren’t in an RV park they store their RV at their house where they only have the common amp household outlet. If you want to keep your batteries charged while you store your RV at your house you will need a 15 to 30 amp adapter.
Keep in mind that you will now be limited to 15 amps while plugged in here, which is not very much when it comes to running appliances but is perfect for charging your batteries before a trip. If you have a 30 amp RV and need a 15 to 30 amp adapter, here is an option: This does not give you more power; you will still be limited to 30 amps.